If you are new to jewellery making then it can seem like a bit of a minefield, so here is a quick guide to get you started. You can click on the blue links to be taken to the products in our shop (will open in a new window).
Pliers - available in lots of different shapes which all perform different functions:
- Round nose for creating loops,
- Flat nose for applying pressure or for bending at right angles,
- Cutters, for trimming excess wire,
- Multi pliers that combine all 3.
Go for a good set of pliers (not the cheapest as they rust easily and are often not very hard wearing!!).
Looms - A frame generally made of wood or metal with lots of grooves which hold thread in place while beads are woven between them. Used for creating ethnic looking pieces of jewellery.
Bead Mats - A wise investment, microfleece mats which stop beads rolling about and stop you losing them all over the floor!
Bead Board - Using one of these boards helps you to work out a design of beads before you begin threading your necklace or bracelet - a real time saver!
There are heaps more tools and gizmos you will come across but these are the most likely ones of interest to beginners!
There are literally hundreds of varieties of beads in a wide range of materials - metal, glass, plastic, resin, ceramic, crystal, gemstone and even rubber and this is not an exhaustive list!!
Seed Beads - tiny beads used as spacers or just on their own on looms. They are very tiny (think 2mm and less!) and come in an whole assortment of colours and finishes – foil lined, opaque, metallic, pearl etc.
Millefiori - Literally means 'thousand flowers'. It is a glasswork technique, which produces distinctive decorative patterns on glassware, in this case glass beads.
Swarovski Crystal - Swarovski crystal beads are prized by jewellers and hobbyists. They are a content high-lead crystal, have an incredible sparkle and clarity, and are often multi-faceted to resemble gemstones. Swarovski bicones are the most popular crystal beads in sizes 4mm and 6mm with crystal and crystal ab as the most common colours.
Lampwork Beads - Lampworking is a type of glasswork where a torch or lamp is primarily used to melt the glass. Once in a molten state, the glass is formed by blowing and shaping with tools and hand movements. When the base bead has been formed, other colours of glass can be added to the surface to create many designs.
Glass Pearls - Imitation pearls are man-made objects that are designed to resemble real pearls. A variety of methods are used to create imitation pearls from starting materials that include glass, plastic, and actual mollusc shell. Some beads are coated with a pearlescent substance in order to imitate the natural iridescence of mother of pearl.
You can also get a huge selection of plastic, acrylic, resin, wooden, metal and plain glass beads. Have fun finding all the different styles that you can get!
Findings is the term given to all the components that go into putting the jewellery together, anything from chain, clasps and hooks to headpins, jumprings and calottes!
Chain - widely available in lengths to create bracelets and necklaces in a wide range of styles and finishes.
Clasps - An abundance of choices here again, lobster clasps and toggle clasps would be the most popular types that you will see on most items of shop bought jewellery and are very easy to use.
Headpins & Eyepins - Widely available in a range of thicknesses (Gauge) and length. They can be used for earrings, pendants, charms and loads of other things. It's best to match the headpin or eyepin material to the rest of the item eg sterling silver headpins for sterling silver chain. They come in a range of finishes including gold and silver plate, gold and sterling silver, antique copper, brass and black.
Jump rings - small loops with a split to use to connect items together, pretty much the same goes for these as with headpins, you will probably need a lot of them and they come measured by the diameter of the ring. They also come in the same finishes as headpins. To open use two pairs of pliers and clamp the pliers onto either side of the circle with the split at the top, bring one set of pliers towards you and part the split (don't be tempted to just force the split apart from inside the ring as this will distort the shape and create an uneven finish!). When you need to close the ring again just reverse the process.
Crimp Beads - tiny little tube beads which can be used with crimping pliers (or flatten with flat nosed piers if you don’t have any) to secure ends of necklaces and bracelets etc. Crimping pliers have 2 notches in them, use the one closest to the handle to 'squash' the crimp bead into a c shape, then use the notch closest to the end to close the c shape into a bead shape. Can be used with calottes to gain a professional finish. Best results with soft flex beading wire and beadalon wires.
Ear Wires – essential if you are making earrings! The hooks come with a loop at the bottom for you to attach a jumpring or headpin/eyepin.
Stretch Magic/Elasticity - Strong and stretchy clear cord available in various colours and diameters and great for making elastic bracelets, kids jewellery and lots of other things!
Tiger Tail/Beadalon - Equally high quality beading wires composed of multiple strings of stainless steel coated in nylon, available in lots of different strengths for various different bead types but great for necklaces and bracelets, again use of crimps and calottes advisable for finishing off.
Leather Thong - available in various colours and diameters suitable for a wide range of chokers and bracelets, can be finished off with either fold over or spring clasps.
Waxed Cotton Cord - the vegetarian option! Equivalent to leather thong and same uses but only one is matte looking and waxed cotton is more of a satin finish.
Metal-Based Wire – metal wire that can be used for making your own headpins, jumpings, wire-work, coiling etc. Comes in many thicknesses and colours.
Again there are lots of other things that you will stumble across but these are some of the basics to get you started.
Finishes
All your findings come in a range of different finishes depending on the look and style you are going for.
Plated – these are made from a base metal, usually copper or brass, coated in a silver or gold layer. You can also get black, antique copper and brass finishes.
Sterling Silver/Gold – genuine 925 silver or gold for more high quality pieces of jewellery.
The plated findings in our experience will tarnish over time and are best suited to inexpensive costume jewellery, however for a lasting finish it's best to go for real sterling silver or gold if you are hoping that people will buy your items with the intention of them lasting long term, or if you are using high quality beads and gemstones!
Great post and article! Thank you so much for sharing this post.
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